New York Grill

I went to this place on the one day which had conspired to serve up the worst possible weather for a visit. Let me explain; the New York Grill, is on the fifty-somethingth floor of the Park Hyatt Tokyo and normally embellishes the dining experience with top of the world views over the city in at least two directions. For my visit the thickest cloud known to mankind had decided to descend on the city and envelop everywhere from around the fifth floor upwards in a pea-souper. If I lived in Tokyo I would simply have postponed my research-purposes-only lunch to another day. Being a hick from Himeji, western Japan, I could not let the opportunity pass, and succumbed to the temptation of a cosy lunch "a un". Other reasons to go include; an ex-workmate having described this as his favourite restaurant of all time ever, also, this is apparently the place where Reiner Becker cut his teeth before starting Zuma in London.

First a brief introduction to dining in Japan: the staff never ask if you have a reservation, drinking water is brought to the table on arrival, there is never a service charge. All three precepts are turned around here to give a

truly international “fine dining” experience. After managing to gain access, lets face it, on a dismal weekday lunch it would have been very surprising if I had had a problem, I am seated at a redundant windowside table (remember, the view is having a day off), perusing a menu which offers a choice of main dish and buffets for starter and dessert. All for around five thousand yen (about 25 quid). I choose a steak for my main and head to the hors d`oeuvre buffet.

The problem with buffets usually is: too much choice. If you are a piggy gourmand like me you end up trying everything while ultimately savouring nothing. The chef here obviously understands this and has gone for quality over quantity. I manage to get a sample of just about everything that looks either interesting or appetising on my plate, (they are trencherman-sized plates), before heading back to the stiff napery of my table. For a buffet the quality is super, with only one dud; the red snapper in jelly, which is insipid and, I believe, filling a token fish dish gap in the repertoire. The fact that this same fish is also on the menu as a main course is also duly noted. On the plus side: the belly pork (no doubt cooked at least twice) is voluptuous in its silken glaze of reduced soy and layers of fat. Another outstanding touch is a DIY Cesar salad with bacon crisps, parmesan and , praise the lord, neither hide nor hair of chicken breast in sight. Another pitfall avoided. For wine I choose a rather nice sauvignon blanc of the dry yet fruity variety, which weighs in at a slightly overpriced 1,700yen (around eight quid).

My mains appear and the first thing noticable is the undeniable truth that I am being confronted by a steak without frites. I ask the waiter if this is right and am told it is. I grit my teeth and commence eating with a heavy heart. My medium steak I find to be, by my definition, well done. I ask the waiter`s opinion. He admits it is a little overcooked, perhaps somewhere between medium and well-done he says with typical Japanese diplomacy. I ask if I could possibly have it re-cooked and cheekily ask for him to add some fries to the MarkII version. He agrees without batting an eyelid but warns me I might be charged separately for the fries. I can live with this. Mark II steak with a side of garlic and herb frites appears, cooked to perfection, chef hasn`t overcompensated by sending out a bleu, I tuck in to an excellently delivered classic accompanied by a very well-balanced, but again over-priced, cabernet sauvignon. I am not charged for the frites.

I am asked to take dessert in the bar, and although not a sweets man, I find my spirits, though not my body mass, lifted by the sight of trifle and tiramisu on the table. I finish with a couple of coffees which are also included in the deal.

Overall the whole experience has been pleasant but not earth-shattering. Attentive, polite, English-speaking staff, carefully prepared food (despite the difference in definition of a medium steak), good wines (all from California), great view (probably, I didn`t get to see it) and an airy, chic atmosphere. The real downer is the price. It seems the food is a loss-leader for the wine, my total bill, including a service charge (which I have never had applied anywhere else in seven years living in Japan) comes to nearly 11,000 yen (55quid). Sounds cheap compared to London, but given that salaries and prices haven`t risen here over the last fifteen years and that 1,000 yen (5quid) will buy a good mid-range set lunch in many restaurants, this is a very extravagent midday meal. For the same price I could eat an all-inclusive three course lunch at the Michelin-starred Le Gavroche in Mayfair. I know which represents better value for money.
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Orlando Matkin
Monday, June 04, 2007